From the beginning, my search was rather narrow by nature as Im a proponent of the all-purpose wine glass above anything else. Sure, varietal-specific glasses can be the way to go in certain situations, but how much of that is marketing? At the end of the day, if youre a casual wine drinker who typically enjoys opening a bottle right away over opting for cellaring (and buying wines accordingly), you can easily get away with stocking up on a few high-quality all-purpose wine glasses, or APs, as theyre colloquially known in the hospitality industry. Then, if need be, fill in any holes with varietal-specific glasses.
Zaltos DenkArt Universal Glass is undeniably among the best of the best, and cult-favorite Turkish glassware brand NUDE also has some very appealing and versatile options for reds and whites at a fraction of Zaltos price tag, though their selection can be a bit overwhelming at times. While these brands have both been on my wish list for quite some time, I decided to dig a bit deeper to see what else was out there.
Coincidentally, I received an email around that time about Austrian crystal brand Gabriel-Glas around this time its refreshing approach to stemware bucks the concept of variety in wine glasses altogether. Needless to say, I was intrigued.
The one for all concept that defines Gabriel-Glas comes in the form of two core stemware styles: the StandArt and the Gold Edition . Both are made of lead-free crystal and are identical in silhouette a bowl shape optimized for pretty much any wine, including bubbles the only difference being in each styles construction.
The StandArt is machine-made, though its completely seam-free and extremely lightweight with a gossamer-thin rim (a quality thats ideal for wine drinking, generally speaking). This glass weighs five ounces.
Its older, more elegant sister, the Gold Edition, is mouth-blown and light as a feather at just under three ounces I squealed when I first removed the latter from its black gift box after both models arrived on my doorstep in the name of comparative research.
I immediately poured a few ounces of Pinot Noir into each and began my analysis.
Again, these two glasses share the exact same shape, which is designed to bring out the best of almost any still or sparkling wine with its broad bowl and gently-sloped walls. My first thought when tasting from the StandArt was that it made my $20 Pinot feel like a $50 Pinot, the Gold Edition amping up the experience even further with its razor-thin lip and barely-thereness. Over the next few days, I tasted a handful of other wines (Provençal rosé, brut Champagne, Rioja, Bordeaux, and more) from both just to see if they really were as great for all-purpose wine drinking as advertised, and I wasnt disappointed.
Also, to my surprise, both glasses are dishwasher-safe and impressively durable thanks to their lack of stress points. It was almost too easy to fall in love with these glasses, so I asked a few other industry experts for their thoughts. Customers often ask me if the wine glass makes a difference, said Justus Benjamin, a certified sommelier who owns and operates Boutique Vino, a wine shop in San Diego. And it does. Its for this very reason Benjamin has been selling Gabriel-Glas in his store for the past four years.
The shape of the Gabriel-Glas allows it to function as three wine glasses in one, he explained. The tulip shape the little black dress of wine glasses wonderfully enhances the aromas and taste of all wines, from Sauvignon Blancs to Cabernets. And once you’ve picked one up, all other glasses will seem heavy by comparison. Though he attests to the durability of both models, Benjamin does recommend being selective about bringing these out when serving guests. They should be saved for special occasions, guests you trust, or those among us who can light cigars with $20 bills, he added.
Nicole MacKay, a WSET Level 3-certified wine and food writer, chimed in as a fellow advocate for the AP and lover of the Gabriel-Glas Gold Edition.
Im a big fan of the one-for-all concept but the Gold Edition really takes drinking wine to the next level. I want to get the best out of every wine bottle so I actually use the glass for everyday tasting, but the silhouette and pristine elegance make the glass look great on a table filled with loved ones, she told me. I also spoke with Paola Embry, CEO and wine director at the Wrigley Mansion in Phoenix, who recommends the machine-made StandArt for casual everyday drinking, pointing out that this glass has a wonderfully fine rim despite coming in at less than half the cost of its mouth-blown counterpart, the Gold Edition.
Both glasses are as light as a feather, have a super thin lip, and a perfect size bowl, she says. One of the more important aspects of great glassware that I look for is the thinness of the rim.
Depending on how often you drink wine at home and how precious you are with sharing your fine glassware, stocking up on both is not only a smart move for your wine collection but a functional way to do something nice for yourself after the year weve all had.
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